Plumbing

Water Source: Well or Municipal  

Water is supplied to the house in one of two ways: either from a well located on the property or from the local municipality via pipes in the street.   

For houses that rely on wells for their water, there are two types of wells-shallow (less than 50 feet deep) and deep (more than 50 feet and up to several hundred feet deep).  Wells rely on pumps to move the water from the well to the house, and these pumps can be located in the well (common for deep wells) or exterior to the well, perhaps even in the basement of the house (common for shallow wells). 

In conjunction with the pump is a water pressure tank that usually resides in the basement, where the water line comes into the house.  This tank is used to store water and to provide water pressure to the house. 

Houses that rely on water from the city will have a main line coming into the house from the street.  This line will generally run underground from the street in front of the house to the interior of the house, in the shortest configuration possible.  In other words, if you’re trying to determine where the main water line comes into the house, start at the front of the garage or along the basement wall closest to the street.  There will be a water meter-used to measure the amount of water coming into the house to generate your water bill-either near the street or in the basement of the house where the main line comes in.  When this shutoff valve is closed, no water will run through the house.  It’s important to know where this is, in case there is ever a major leak in the house and you need to completely shut off the water. 

The other major component you should be aware of at this point in the plumbing system is the pressure reducing valve (PRV).  This mechanical device is used to regulate the pressure in the house, reducing the high pressure of the incoming water to a more comfortable pressure for the fixtures in the house. 

Typically, the PRV will keep the water pressure between 30-60 pounds per square inch (psi).  If the PRV fails, water pressure will increase above this acceptable threshold and you may hear rattling in your pipes or have issues with your plumbing fixtures.  When this happens; your PRV will need to be replaced.  Depending on the water pressure from the municipal water supply and how well it is maintained, a PRV may last as short as ten years or as long as the life of the house. 

Water Heater   

If you follow the water line past the main shutoff valve, the first major appliance you will see is the water heater.  Water comes directly into the house and into the water heater, where water is heated to supply hot water to the house. 

The water heater may run on gas or electricity, with gas being more common these days.  Gas water heaters use gas to light a pilot that starts a flame, which heats the water in the tank; electric water heaters contain a heating element that heats water much like an electric stove heats water in a pot. 

Water heaters generally hold 30 to 50 gallons of water and last eight to ten years.  From the water heater, there will be two lines-one for hot water and one for cold water.  These two lines will branch off and supply water to all the fixtures throughout the house. 

Distribution Piping  

The distribution piping consists of all the hot and cold-water lines branching through the house.  In most cases, the hot and cold lines will run next to each other to each of the fixtures. 

These supply lines are generally made of copper, steel, or a plastic material (PVC or CPVC), though Pex (a flexible plastic piping material) is exceptionally cheap, easy to use, and is becoming more common these days. 

Copper, PVC, and Pex piping should last for the life of the house, and unless there is specific damage to the piping, you shouldn’t have to worry about rust or deterioration. 

Drain Piping/Venting 

All sinks, tubs, and toilets will have larger pipes-generally 3”-4” in diameter-that take waste and water from the fixture to a main drain line (called the “stack”) that runs vertically from below the foundation of the house (where the wastewater is taken from the house) all the way up through the roof, where it ends with a vent open to the air. 

The top of the stack is vented out through the roof in order to maintain neutral air pressure in the system and to allow sewage gases to escape so that the gas doesn’t end up back in the house, causing sickness and odour.  The drain line from each fixture will tie into the main stack at two points: towards the bottom of the stack where the wastewater flows and towards the top of the stack to allow the gas to escape. 

At its lowest point in the house, the stack turns and runs horizontally, draining out of the house to link up with the city sewer or the septic system. 

Drain lines are commonly made of PVC, especially in houses built after the 1960s.  In older houses, it is not uncommon to see drain lines made of galvanized steel, cast iron, copper, or even lead.  For the most part, drain lines of all material will often last the life of the house. 

Fixtures 

The plumbing fixtures include all the things the supply and drain lines hook up to, including sinks and faucets, tubs and showers, toilets, dishwasher, washing machine, and hose bibs (exterior connectors where hoses attach). 

Inspection Tips  

When inspecting the plumbing of a home you’re considering purchasing, the primary goal is to rule out any costly repairs.  In many cases, you’ll be replacing cosmetic plumbing fixtures like toilets, faucets, and sinks, so any minor issues related to those are likely to be repaired during a basic renovation. 

While it’s unlikely you’ll be familiar with all plumbing codes in your area-I’ve been doing this a long time and I’m not familiar with all my local codes-there are still many basic plumbing items you can identify during your inspection.  Remember, even identifying potential issues will allow you to bring in an expert to examine more closely and help you avoid any expensive surprises down the road. 

• If the property’s water source is a well, there are a couple of things you will want, to verify, and would be wise to bring in an expert to assist: 

First, if the property relies on well water, you should include a contingency in your contract that will allow you to get the water tested.  Contaminated wells can be one of the costliest issues you ever face, as there may not be any cost-effective fix. 

 Next, if the property was previously on a well and either a new well has been dug or the property is now on municipal water, you should bring in an expert to verify that the old well was properly abandoned.  This is now a requirement in many jurisdictions, and the cost of properly abandoning a well can run well into the thousands of dollars for deep wells. 

• If your property is served by city water, there are two tests I like to perform that will give an indication of any plumbing leaks on the property: 

First, to test if there are any interior water leaks, turn off all the water sources in the property and then find the water meter.  On many water meters, there is an indication of whether water is flowing or not- for example, a spinning mechanical arrow.  If the water meter indicates that water is flowing through it-but all the interior plumbing fixtures are off-this can be an indication of a leak somewhere past the meter. 

Second, if your water meter sits at the street near your property line, you can turn the interior water off at the main water shutoff valve and observe the meter.  If water is flowing through the meter when the main shutoff is closed, this is an indication of a leak between the meter and the shutoff valve.  In many cases, that leak will be in the main line running from the street to the house. 

• The next thing I will do when inspecting the plumbing system at a potential property is to determine whether the water heater should be replaced.  There are several things you should look for and consider: 

First, try to determine the age of the heater.  Typically, there is a sticker or plaque attached to the side or top of the heater that contains basic information-manufacturer, model number, serial number, etc.  In many cases, the manufacturer date will be listed here as well.  In some cases, you can glean the manufacturer year from the serial number.  If the water heater is more than eight years old, you should seriously consider replacing it. 

A common failure point of water heaters is that the bottom will rust, and water will leak out of the tank.  Obviously, large amounts of water leaking from the tank can do major damage to the house, so I recommend taking a thorough look around and under the water heater to rule out any major rust or leaks.  If you see rust on or under the heater, I recommend replacing it to reduce your risk of a major leak. 

 You will want to verify that the size of the water heater is appropriate for the size of the house and the number of bathrooms.  If the property has more than one bathroom and you expect more than two people will be living in the property, you should ensure that the water heater is a minimum of 40 to 50 gallons.  For three-bathroom properties and above, consider a larger tank of 60 to 80 gallons. 

You should check to see if the water heater has an expansion tank attached.  Its purpose is to prevent the pressure from the heated water from being too high.  If there isn’t one, depending on the scope of your repairs and whether you need to pull permits, you might want to consider adding one.  This may be required to bring the water heater up to code. 

Finally, you should turn on the hot water at one or more fixtures to verify that the water heater is working properly and heating the water.  If the water doesn’t get hot, on a gas water heater, you can check the pilot light to ensure its lit. On an electric water heater, the heating element will sometimes burn out before the water heater has reached the end of its life-if this happens, the element can be replaced without having to replace the entire heater. 

Next, I recommend looking at the supply lines running from the water heater to the rest of the house.  Not only should you be looking at the condition of these lines but also considering the material they are made of.  Here are a few things to look for: 

• If you have a house that is more than 80 years old, you should determine if the supply lines are made of cast iron, steel, or lead piping.  For cast iron and steel piping, a thorough inspection of condition is recommended; for lead piping, I recommend getting the water tested to ensure that lead isn’t contaminating the water. 

• If you have a house that is more than 50 years old, you should verify that it doesn’t have galvanized steel piping; if it does, the piping is likely reaching the end of its life (it rusts from the inside out) and should be replaced.  You can typically identify galvanized pipe by its gray color, threaded joints, and metallic tone when tapped with a screwdriver. 
• In houses built in the 1980s and early 1990s, a material called polybutylene was commonly used for supply lines.  This is typically a flexible gray plastic pipe and often has the letters “PB” stamped on it.  It was later realized that this material breaks down over ten to 20 years and will eventually fail.  If you have polybutylene plumbing in your house, you should seriously consider getting all the supply lines replaced prior to reselling; in many cases, this will be a red flag to both inspectors and lenders. 
• I recommend testing every plumbing fixture in the house.  This includes faucets, showers, toilets, appliances, and hose bibs.  Even if you plan to replace some or all of these fixtures, testing them can reveal leaks, backups, and water pressure issues that you otherwise might not catch until after you’ve finalized your budget. 
• If you have any concerns about the proper functioning of the drain lines or sewer line, you can close and fill all the sinks and tubs, and then allow them all to drain at the same-flushing the toilets simultaneously.  If any of the fixtures drain slowly, or not at all, this can be an indication of clog or backup. 
• Lastly, you should check for water stains under sinks and discoloration on ceilings, which can be indications of water leaks.